Tile grout is the cement-based filler packed into the joints between tiles. It locks the installation together, keeps debris out of the gaps and sets the visual rhythm of a floor or wall. This collection gathers about 30 sanded and unsanded grout colors for homeowners and installers finishing ceramic, porcelain, glass and natural stone tile.
Slightly more than half of the range is unsanded grout and the rest is sanded. List prices run from around $15 to about $33 per listed item, with most colors sitting between roughly $23 and $31, and nearly all of them currently show as in stock. Each listing describes the package it covers, so compare package contents as well as price.
Sanded vs Unsanded Grout: Choosing by Joint Width
The most important choice is not color but joint width. The rule used across the trade is simple: unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch, sanded grout for joints 1/8 inch and wider, up to the maximum width the manufacturer lists on the package. Fine sand gives the mix bulk, which limits shrinkage and cracking as a wide joint cures. Without it, a wide joint tends to pull away from the tile edges or crack down the middle.
Unsanded grout is smoother and stickier. It presses easily into tight joints, clings well on vertical surfaces and finishes with a clean, fine texture. That makes it the usual pick for wall tile and tight-jointed mosaics.
- Unsanded fits best: polished marble, glass tile, glazed wall tile, rectified porcelain set with tight joints and small mosaics with narrow gaps.
- Sanded fits best: floor tile set with 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch joints, tumbled stone with irregular edges, larger-format floor tile and any layout where joint width varies.
Soft and Highly Polished Surfaces
Sand particles can scratch soft or high-gloss surfaces while you float and wipe. Polished marble, polished limestone, glass and glossy ceramic are the usual concerns. On these materials, installers lean toward unsanded grout when the joint width allows, and they test the float and sponge on a spare tile first.
Tumbled and Irregular Stone
Tumbled travertine, split-face stone and hand-cut looks rarely have perfectly straight edges, so joints swing wider and narrower along a run. Sanded grout handles that variation and holds up better in the wider spots.
Picking a Grout Color That Works With the Tile
The range spans several color families. Whites include polar and fresh lily tones; warm creams include Irish creme, natural almond and vintage linen; grays run from dove and silver horizon through stone and dusk; and charcoal dust covers the dark end. A few guidelines help narrow the choice:
- Match to blend. A grout color close to the tile makes the surface read as one plane and hides small layout imperfections. It suits busy natural stone such as travertine or veined marble.
- Contrast to outline. A darker or lighter joint draws attention to the pattern, which is the point with subway, herringbone or hexagon layouts, but it also highlights every uneven joint.
- Think about traffic. Bright white grout on a kitchen or entry floor shows dirt quickly. Mid-tone grays and warm neutrals are more forgiving underfoot.
- Judge it dry. Cement grout usually cures lighter than it looks wet, so judge a cured test patch rather than the wet mix.
How Grout Fits With Thinset Mortar and Other Setting Materials
Grout and setting materials do different jobs. Thinset mortar is the adhesive layer that bonds tile to the substrate; grout goes into the joints only after that mortar has cured. Mixing up the two is a common first-project mistake.
- Polymer-modified thinset contains added polymers for stronger bond and some flexibility, and it is widely used for porcelain and most interior floors and walls.
- Large and heavy tile mortars are formulated to support big formats and thick stone without slumping.
- White thinset is generally preferred under light marble, limestone and glass so gray mortar does not show through or shadow the stone.
- Pre-mixed mastic is generally limited to small wall tile in dry areas; most installers avoid it for floors, wet areas and natural stone.
Industry guidance calls for strong mortar coverage on the back of each tile, with higher coverage expected in showers and exterior areas. Back-buttering large tiles and stone helps reach it. Always follow the mortar manufacturer for trowel size, open time and how long to wait before grouting.
Grouting Step by Step
- Confirm the mortar has cured for the time its maker specifies, then pull spacers and clear any squeezed-out mortar from the joints.
- Seal porous or unsealed natural stone before grouting so pigment does not stain the surface.
- Mix with clean water in the ratio printed on the package. Extra water weakens the joint and causes blotchy color. If the instructions call for a rest period after mixing, let the grout stand, then remix.
- Work a small area at a time. Hold a rubber float at an angle and pass it diagonally across the joints to pack them full.
- Once the grout firms up, wipe with a damp, well-wrung sponge, again moving diagonally, and rinse the sponge often.
- Buff the light haze off with a dry cloth after it forms, and let the joints cure fully before heavy use or sealing.
Planning Quantity and Keeping Color Consistent
Grout coverage depends on tile size, tile thickness and joint width. Small mosaics and wide joints use far more grout per square foot than large tiles with tight joints. Manufacturers publish coverage charts on their packaging, and working from those numbers is more reliable than guessing. Buy enough for the whole job at once so the material comes from the same production lot, and keep a little extra for future repairs.
Grout Sealer and Everyday Care
Cement-based tile grout is porous. Once it has cured for the period the manufacturer specifies, a penetrating grout sealer slows staining from spills, soap and dirt. Clean with a pH-neutral cleaner, avoid acidic products on stone and grout alike, and reseal when water stops beading on the joints. Where tile meets a tub, a wall corner or a change of plane, use a flexible sealant instead of grout, because those joints move.
Tile Grout FAQ
Should I use sanded or unsanded grout?
Choose by joint width. Unsanded grout is meant for joints under 1/8 inch, and sanded grout for joints 1/8 inch and wider. If the tile surface is soft or highly polished, such as marble or glass, unsanded is often preferred where the joint width allows it.
Can sanded grout scratch marble tile?
It can. The sand in the mix may leave fine scratches on polished marble, polished limestone, glass and glossy glazes during floating and cleanup. Test on a spare tile first, or choose unsanded grout with a tight joint.
What is the difference between grout and thinset mortar?
Thinset mortar is the adhesive that bonds tile to the floor or wall. Grout fills the joints between the tiles after the mortar has cured. They are separate products with separate jobs and are not interchangeable.
Does grout need to be sealed?
Most cement-based grout benefits from a penetrating sealer once it has fully cured, especially on floors, kitchen backsplashes and showers. Follow the grout and sealer instructions for timing, and reseal when water no longer beads on the joints.
Why did my grout dry a different color?
Cement grout usually dries lighter than it looks wet. Blotchy color often comes from adding too much water, uneven sponging or mixing batches from different lots. Measure water carefully and mix consistent batches.
Should shower corners be grouted?
Inside corners and changes of plane are usually finished with a flexible sealant rather than grout. These joints move slightly as the building shifts and temperature changes, and rigid grout tends to crack there.